Almost a century ago, the Rose Island amusement park was the happening place in Kentuckiana. People came here to escape the Lousiville city smog. Abandoned for most of the 20th century after a flood, Rose Island is reopen today as a public park with a few abandoned remains left to discover.
Experience the full story by listening to this podcast episode.
Table of Contents
Devil’s Backbone
To talk about Rose Island, we have to go back. Way back. The story of Rose Island begins as the story of a geological structure. The “island” is actually a peninsula, known as “Devil’s Backbone”, located between the Ohio River and Fourteen Mile Creek, east of Charlestown, IN.
A number of stories exist about the early history of the area, centuries ago, all based around the supposed existence of a (reportedly) man-made stone wall around the actual Devil’s Backbone rock outcropping. Some say that a Welsh prince called Madoc and his men occupied the island in the 1170s. Others say that the Aztecs (located down in central Mexico) actually had a northern outpost in IN, right on Rose Island.
No evidence for either legend exists.
In 1902, one of the most well-traveled archaeologists at the time, Gerard Fowke, visited the site. His verdict about the supposedly man-made stone wall? “Both the plan and the description of this so-called fort are entirely imaginary…” He went on to say “It seems incredible that a person connected in any capacity with a geological survey, even as a cook or mule-driver, could ever have made such a ridiculous blunder as to suppose them artificial.”
Thus is the beginning of the history of Rose Island.
Fern Grove
In the 1880s, the area began being called “Fern Grove”, an obvious name choice due to the massive amount of ferns growing in the area. People came to Fern Grove to picnic and relax on Sundays after church. Churches also ran religious camps on the site.
The location was calm and peaceful, full of natural beauty along the Ohio River. Quote: “This was the summertime treat looked forward to all year long. Fern Grove was large, pleasant picnic ground.” People came to Fern Grove to get out of the sooty city and into the fresh clean natural air.
A hotel was built on the site, called Fern Cliff Hotel. This was a spectacular place, particularly for the time. The building was three stories, done in the Victorian style. It had latticed front porches along the entire from of the building, surrounded by trees and climbing flowers. Promotional literature of the time proclaimed Fern Grove as THE place to get away from the heat and humidity in Louisville. This was a time long before air conditioning.
A 1917 newspaper ad calls it “the beauty spot of the Ohio Valley”, describing the area as “gorgeously bedecked in beautifully tinged wildflowers”.
Changes at Fern Grove
The Louisville and Jeffersonville Ferry Company purchased the land in 1881 from its Ohio owners to serve as a stop for leisure passengers on its ferries. The cost was $1300 ($32,500 in 2019 money). Fern Grove became a spot for day trips. Travelers would disembark from the ferry in the morning and spend the entire day picnicking, exploring the ferns, and relaxing amongst the natural beauty.
All was calm until one year: “All Sunday-school picnics were pretty much identical until that famous summer when the Episcopalians introduced dancing on their boat rides. To say there was a sensation is gross understatement. But while the older members of the somewhat sterner sects clucked and shook their heads in disapproval, their young flocked to join the outings of Calvary, St. Andrews and Christ Church.”
David Rose
David Rose was born in Nicholasville, Kentucky, with not much to his name. As an 8-year-old, he took a paper route. As he grew, his businesses grew as well. He purchased a newspaper agency at the age of 11 and managed it for a few years. He then moved to Louisville. There, he worked his way up the ladder of the Louisville Post. He was associated with over 26 corporations during his life. One of the most notable was the Standard Printing Company, which he founded in 1901 using $75. It was built into a multi-million-dollar printing company over the next 20 years, becoming the largest in the South.
He established a number of different businesses and organizations, including a recreational home for newsboys, the International Circulation Managers Association, the Riverside Park, the first public swimming pool (at Shelby Park), and the Southeastern School of Printing in Nashville. He is often remembered for offering the city of Louisville 10 city blocks’ worth of electric lights, hoping to set an example for others of his wealth.
David Rose Purchases Rose Island
In the 1920s, Rose was well aware of local Fern Grove, and was interested in the Falls Cities Ferry & Transportation Company. He had big ideas and big dreams, and he wanted to give the area a boost.
In 1923, the Courier-Journal proclaimed that David Rose had purchased the Fern Grove property, with plans for an amusement park. Cost of the purchase was not mentioned, but is estimated at $50,000.
Rose reportedly invested over $250,000 into developing Rose Island into a tourist property. He had plans including augmented water supplies, a beach for bathing, restaurants, tennis courts, and rental cottages. Rose apparently even planned to whitewash the trees that faced the river. He repaired the old road on the Kentucky side leading to the ferry dock, and created a manned parking lot for visitors to park in.
And of course, he changed the name of the peninsula: Rose Island.
Getting to Rose Island
There were two ways to get to the new Rose Island Amusement Park: bridge, or steamboat.
Footbridge to Rose Island
From the Indiana side, visitors could drive, park, and walk on the swinging bridge. The bridge was 50 feet in length over the creek. A visitor at the time recalls: “the boys used to get on an shake that thing, and it would scare us girls to death”. Visitors arriving by suspension bridge still had to pay to enter the park at a ticket booth once they’d crossed the bridge. The bridge itself had tree limbs interwoven as part of the side railing. In high water, the slats almost touched the water; in low water, the bridge was far above the surface.
Steamboats to Rose Island
From the Kentucky side, three ferry trips a day by steamers and paddleboats would serve the island. These steamboats included Steamer America, City of Cincinnati, Columbia, and Idlewild, which later became the more famous Belle of Louisville.
Steamer America carried up to 4000 passengers per day, and was one of the largest river steamers in the country. It was often chartered for clubs and churches planning their annual picnics at Fern Grove and Rose Island.
Idlewild is still in operation today as Belle of Louisville. It was built in 1914 with a very modern design for the time – all steel construction. She is reportedly the record holder in her class for years of operation, miles traveled, and places visited.
Rides on the steamboat from Louisville would take around 1.5-2 hours, and cost about 50 cents per rider. Riders would wake up early to catch the steamer. The boats had music and were considered part of the fun of the day trip.
The river landing featured the iconic Rose Island arched sign. The sign was mounted on three stone pillars for visitors to walk under and flanked with gothic-style iron lamps and lighted walkways. The sign was electric, and could be seen for miles up and down the river.
Rose Island Amusement Park
Rose Island Amusement Park covered 118 acres on the peninsula, and was located about 14 miles from Louisville. Reportedly, the park attracted 135,000 visitors annually in its heyday.
Rose Island Amenities
It had the capacity to handle about 4,000 guests per day! The park had its own electrical power-generating station, its own mineral water well and water supply, its own sanitation system, and its own ice plant. Waterworks (drinking fountains) were promoted by temperance movements at the time as an alcohol alternative, and these were part of the ad copy for the park.
At night, the entire park was well-lit to allow for night-time walks by patrons. One historical path is now called “Walkway of Roses”. Other sources at the time refer to this as “the great white way” due to the white stones lining the path and white pillars with white rose bushes, with roses twining overhead on arches over the path. Either way, the park’s natural beauty would’ve been a pleasure to walk around and enjoy.
Rules of Rose Island
A sign on the wall of the dance hall provided the rules for the park:
“Rose Island was purchased for the purpose of making it a public playground and summer resort for the pleasure of the people of the Falls Cities. To insure the success of the enterprise, the management has adopted certain definite rules which all patrons are expected to respect:
No gambling will be allowed
No drinking permitted
Animals must not be molested
All other property fully protected
“Under no circumstances will unbecoming conduct be permitted on the island. The cooperation of the public is not only requested but insisted upon. If Louisville and the Falls Cities are to have a model resort, all who wish to enjoy its many advantages must do their part.”
“Rose Island Company, Inc” David B. G. Rose, 220 S. First St, Louisville KY
Rose Island Hotel
The hotel on Rose Island was originally built in 1886, during the Fern Grove days, and back then, it was called the Fern Cliff Hotel. Stories diverge about whether David Rose simply modernized and renamed the Fern Cliff Hotel, or whether he painted it and made it a home for the park employees, building a separate Rose Island Hotel.
The hotel stood at the base of the cliff, just north of the Ohio River Gateway. The rooms featured verandas, and offered breezy river views. There were 12 rooms, which were reportedly remodeled by David Rose to include a private bathroom in each room.
Rose Island Cottages
Suitable for short-term or all-season rentals, the Rose Island Cottages were completely furnished and could accommodate 4-8 people. Twenty cottages were available for rental as summer homes, and were located just 100 feet from the river. Each cottage had four rooms, with the most modern of finishings. Room service was available, and cost an extra 20 cents per person.
Residents who elected to rent a cottage for the entire summer were able to take a boat to and from Louisville at a lower charge.
Rose Island Dining Hall
With the capacity for 4,000 guests per day came food infrastructure. The Rose Island Restaurant was able to seat 500 guests at a time indoors. Outdoors and in the adjacent dance hall were also available for additional seating, bring the total capacity to over 1600 people per meal.
The menu featured fresh-caught fish from the adjacent Ohio River. The on-site Rose Island Company had its own farm: fresh eggs, milk, butter, and cream came from the local hens, Jersey cows and onsite dairy owned by Rose Island Company. These items were delivered three times a day. Remember the time period: these were considered luxury for the city-dwellers who visited Rose Island.
Advertisements called the food “excellent cuisine”. One visitor remembers that the cooking was amazing, with “the best onion rings around”.
Amusements at Rose Island Amusement Park
Though the park’s offerings may seem paltry to modern standards, it is best to recall the time period. In popular memory, you might think of the glitter of the oldest Coney Island parks, like the original Dreamland (1904), Luna Park (1903), and Steeplechase Park (1897). Rose Island, though, was primarily a resort that also had amusements, and it wouldn’t be fair to stack it up against these places. It was a more local amusement park and its offerings were still a huge draw.
Rose Island Carousel and Roller Coaster
Rose Island had a wooden carousel, which possibly was left over from the Fern Grove days. A grainy image from a 1930s promotional pamphlet shows a classic carousel and an array of riders. Painted birds and shiny mirrors decorate the structure.
Unlike with most abandoned parks, very little is known about the former Rose Island rollercoaster. It was a wooden coaster, and likely was built after 1929, since no images of it appear in the 1930 promotional pamphlet. In fact, we have no images of the coaster from the park’s operational days. There is little else known about it, though some suggest the coaster was called “Devil’s Backbone” after the famous geographical structure nearby.
Pony Rides and Steamboat Races
The park advertised rides on Shetland ponies for those who thought the carousel was too staid.
If mechanical items were of more interest, the park offered excellent views of steamboat races as part of its regular schedule of events. The hilly shore on the Ohio River allowed a perfect spot for viewing the regular steamboat races. A 1928 event included one such race, with the City of Cincinnati and Steamer America racing from Louisville to Rose Island. City of Cincinnati won.
The beautiful nature scenery was an incredible draw at the time, with visitors enjoying the variety of abundance, from the “Lovers’ Lane” path along the top of the “Devil’s Backbone” ridge to rocks, wildflowers, and river scenery. The “Rose Island Lagoon” allowed a calm area for paddleboats, and a waterfall also existed: Cascade Falls.
Sports and Animals
As the park was often very popular among church outings and large groups of people, sports provided a popular amusement at Rose Island. The park had baseball fields, tennis courts, and was in the process of building a miniature golf course. There was also reported to be a shooting gallery.
Rose Island Zoo
Zoos of course have been popular for much of human history, so it is no surprise that Rose Island also had a zoo. The Rose Island Amusement Park Zoo featured groundhogs, wolves, twelve exotic monkeys from the West Indies, and alligators. The alligators famously lived in a moat around a decorative fountain.
That park’s zoo is best known for its small black bear named Teddy Roosevelt. By modern standards the zoo is very unsafe. The bear was separated from people by nothing more than metal bars. A small sign is affixed reading “Beware of animals, don’t put your hands in cages.”
If you’re wondering about the name, remember that Teddy Roosevelt, the 26th president of the United States, gave rise to our modern “teddy bear”. In 1902, he refused to shoot a chained black bear on a hunting trip, and toy plush bears were created to celebrate the event.
Rose Island Dance Hall
Dancing was a huge part of the amusement scene at this time period. Rose Island’s Dance Hall was constructed adjacent to the dining hall, with exposed beams on the ceiling. Inside, there was seating along one side.
The dance hall doubled as a roller-skating rink during the day. An organ would play for the skaters. In the evening, the roller floor would be removed and the dance floor set up.
Visitors from the time recall dances to end each evening at the park: waltzes and tangoes in the 1920s, and new dance crazes like the Lindy Hop and the Charleston in the 1930s. Orchestras were great draws for the park and were featured on handbills promoting the park at the time.
Rose Island Swimming Pool
Built in 1934, the swimming pool is the most memorable park of Rose Island Amusement Park, due to its visibility in the modern time as an abandoned park. When the park was open, the pool was a huge crowd-pleaser for guests in the humid summer days before air conditioning. The park offered bathings suits for rental.
A lifeguard at the time remembered that the biggest problem was preventing guests from climbing the trees to dive in.
The pool itself was said to be the first of its kind: the first Olympic-sized swimming pool in Indiana, and the first filtered-water pool in the Midwest, with an integrated system for skimming off oils and keeping the water fresh. It was essentially a double-wall around the pool, which is very unique.
In the center of the pool stood a large top-like structure: a circular platform with a handle, where guests could stand and work to spin one another around. The pool was incredibly popular for guests during the short time it was in existence.
The Great Depression
As with all theme parks and all areas of daily life at the time, the Great Depression hit Rose Island hard, causing it to have its first ever operating loss in 1931. It’s said that David Rose kept the park open during the Great Depression only by paying bills out of his own personal accounts.
The Great Ohio Flood of 1937
In January and February of 1937, a devastating flood swept through the South.
Water levels began to rise at the beginning of January. In the middle of the month, near record rainfalls were recorded for days on end. By January 18, the Ohio River began to overflow its banks. On January 27, the river was marked at 57 ft in Louisville near the Rose Island, setting a new record for the area. 70% of the city was under water.
It took until the first week of February 1937 for water levels to fall beneath flood stage.
The flood was considered one of the most powerful of the 20th century.
The government responded by sending out a fleet from the US Army Corps. Bridges were too flooded to allow the boats to go under, so relief vessels were forced to steam around them, going over farmland and dodging telephone and powerlines. FDR was president at the time (though only just, having been inaugurated on January 20, 1937), and sent in thousands of workers to provide aid with food and temporary housing.
The scale of the flood was incredibly unprecedented. Groups lobbied to create comprehensive flood plans afterwards, ultimately involving the creation of more than 70 storage reservoirs to reduce the river’s flood height. This took 5-10 years but has drastically reduced flood damage in the years since. Not only relevant for the Ohio River, the aftermath of the 1937 Ohio River flood also affected how local governments planned for future floods on the Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers.
Local Effects of the 1937 Flood
Locally in Louisville, hundreds of thousands of people were left homeless as a result of the flood. This was during the height of the Depression and times were incredibly hard. Louisville directed future development towards the east, away from the flood plain.
A local who experienced the floods recalls: “It is impossible to describe the difficulties in rebuilding and restoring residences, barns, business places, and fences. The mud was deep everywhere, even in buildings that did not wash away. Since most places did not have running water systems, there were not hoses to use for washing out the buildings. Cleaning up was a laborious process by hand. Many cattle and horses were drowned, to say nothing of poultry.”
At the time, damages for Kentucky in general were estimated at $250 M, an incredible number in 1937. In 2019 dollars, this would be $4.4 BILLION dollars.
Rose Island: Devastated
Rose Island was hit incredibly hard by the flood. The entire property was submerged, in places under 10-15 feet of water. The bridge was washed away completely, with only the support pylons remaining. Trees fell and most of the buildings were irreparably damaged.
The park, though closed at the time of the flood, couldn’t be rebuilt for the 1937 season, and it turned out to be too expensive to repair the damages for any future seasons. (Remember, this was still in the Depression.)
David Rose walked away from Rose Island, leaving it essentially abandoned, and pursued other business ventures instead. He died 21 years later, in 1958.
The local paper, the Courier-Journal, visited the now abandoned Rose Island Amusement Park in 1939 to survey the damage. The nickelodeon (playing music off punched rolls of paper) was ruined, spilling its music rolls across the floor.
Most of the structure were present but deteriorating. Inside buildings, typical office debris was strewn across floors, sodden and ruined.
In the only extant picture of the roller coaster, a pile of wooden debris can be seen, one with a roller coaster chain partially attached. It is barely recognizable as a coaster.
Indiana Army Ammunition Plant and Rose Island
Thus devastated and mostly inaccessible, Rose Island was left to be taken back by nature. The army bought the property in 1940 for its Indiana Army Ammunition Plant, prior to the second World War, as it needed water from the river for the production of ammunition. Land in the area was cheap as it was unsuitable for farming. The first plant here was completed by 1941. The land formerly used for Rose Island went unused in the army days, serving as a buffer between the ammunition plant and the river during WWII.
At its peak, the Indiana Army Ammunition Plant plant employed 27,000 locals. The plant produced smokeless powder, rocket propellant, and propellant charge bags. Most commuted up from Louisville by train. The plant was active through the Korean and Vietnam wars.
Again, the Rose Island Amusement Park was left abandoned. A few visitors occasionally made it over to the park by boat, but the bridge was long gone and the property was under private ownership.
Abandoned in the 1950s and 1960s
A 1958 expedition by the local paper saw decayed fragments of a rowboat that had previous been rented by patrons, a small shelter, and little else. Broken parts of a picnic table and the wasted suspension bridge were the only other recognizable pieces.
In 1963, Jefferson County Judge Marlow Cook had a proposal. He’d been instrumental in purchasing the Belle of Louisville for the community and wanted to revive Rose Island as an amusement park. However, investigation of the site found the costs to do so would be prohibitive. They also stated that due to erosion, a boat the size of the Belle could no longer dock at Rose Island.
1980 Expedition to Abandoned Rose Island Amusement Park
An expedition by the state in 1980 found few remnants of the park left. None of the park’s original signs or buildings remained, only a few posts and beams from the suspension bridge.
The swimming pool was still in excellent shape, with grass growing inside and the metal water toy there like a discarded child’s top. The ladder to the side of the pool belies the scale of the image. Where there once was a clearing and a fence around the area, trees now encroached on the pool.
The structures all disappeared, for the most part, by the 1980 visit. Foundations were really all that was left.
The shoreline path, so well-kept back in the 20s and 30s for walking at night, was now tangling with roots, much closer to the water as erosion occurred.
At the former steamboat landing, only the pillars for the sign remained.
Charlestown State Park
In 1995, the land from the former Rose Island Amusement Park was officially donated to the state, becoming part of Charlestown State Park which covers 15,000 acres. Plans began to be made for the restoration of the Rose Island Amusement Park. As we mentioned earlier, the only access to the Rose Island Amusement Park was by boat. Restoration began in 2011 with the construction of a bridge to the Island.
Portersville Bridge
The bridge that now crosses Fourteen Mile Creek is the Portersville Bridge. It originally crossed the White River at Portersville in 1912. Shortly after its completion, it was submerged in a 1912 flood, and had to be rebuilt three feet higher the next year. It is a truss bridge, which replace wooden covered bridges in popularity around the turn of the 20th century. This bridge is a steel “pinned camelback through truss” style.
In 1999, the bridge was closed to car traffic at Portersville, and in 2008 it was closed for restoration and relocation. Pieces were numbered as the bridge was disassembled, and then completely cleaned, inspected, and painted. Only 5% of the pieces had to be replaced when the bridge was re-installed at Charlestown State Park near Rose Island.
Rose Island Abandoned Theme Park
Today, the former Rose Island Amusement Park is open as a public hiking trail, part of the Charlestown State Park. Trail #3 connects hikers to Trail #7, which runs through the historic site. There is a 70 ft elevation change over ¾ of a mile to get to the site, very steep on the way back up. Guided tours do provide a van. Visitors describe the drop as ear-popping, a dip down to where civilization falls away and the woods reign.
The entrance to the park from this direction features a small modern replica of the original entrance, with informational displays. The original “Rose Island” sign that attracted visitors for miles up the river is long gone and presumed stolen. However, the three concrete-and-stone pillars that once held the sign do still remain, amidst a pile of concrete and vines looking out across the river.
Displays at Rose Island
Throughout the site, poles stand with signs, labeling the locations for the original buildings. The state has set up informational displays, complete with vintage pictures. Boxes with hand cranks stand adjacent, where visitors can listen to audio about the park’s remnants. Interestingly, there are blue rings around each of the labeled poles to indicate the height of the river’s crest in 1937.
The area where small motorboats once landed is now dry; visitors can see concrete pylons where boats were tied up, but the water no longer reaches these moorings.
No foundations from the hotel remained as of the archaeological survey in 2012. The only remnants of the hotel now are part of a retaining wall and a few steps. A rusting metal piano support leans against a tree near the site of the former dance hall, a reminder of the music that must have echoed through the forest every summer night almost a century ago.
Remnants of Rose Island
An original picnic table does still remain at the park. There’s also a crumbling pile of bricks with a fence around it to protect from ambitious guests. It’s the remnants of the fountain that once held small alligators in its moat.
Occasionally, one can find bricks and metal rods and other small reminders of civilization. But overall, the park is very much becoming taken back by nature. Hidden amongst the vines, one can find small remnants: broken pieces of pottery, rusted cast iron handles, broken drinking glasses and bottles.
The largest remaining visual of the abandoned park is the swimming pool. This pool, as late as 2015, was filled with murky green water, downed trees, and the original floating disc that attracted so many swimmers in the 30s. It was filled in with gravel and concrete in the late 2010s, for safety reasons. Nearby, a broken foundation remains, marking the site of the swimsuit rental station. The ladder for pool access still arches over the sides, a ghost-like reminder of this site’s once-grand past.
Memories of Rose Island Amusement Park
The abandoned Rose Island Amusement Park is sparsely populated still today. The site is a difficult hike. The area is quiet, filled with the sounds of nature: leaves in the wind, birds, waves on the water. An occasional tourist winds a hand-crank to hear a story about Rose Island’s history.
Despite the few visible pieces of the park remaining, the serene environment makes it easy to picture how the amusement park might have once been. Neatly maintained, with luxurious appointments. Mineral wells. The quiet buzz of conversation, the echoing sounds of laughter from the ball fields and tennis courts. The organ playing as the carousel whirled.
And of course, the riotous music and laughter and light spilling out from the dance hall as night fell, inviting ladies in dresses and men in suits inside. “Almost like a dream,” a guest at the time remembers it. And it truly must have been.
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References
Many acknowledgements to the Indiana Memory Digital Collections this week, for their in-depth online collections on Rose Island. All images are used here for educational purposes only.
I’ve included a complete list of references used while researching this topic. It’s hidden under the link for brevity.